Between the Tradition and Development

The city of Port Moresby is changing very fast. Lots of New Hotels, Apartment Houses, Shopping Centres and Office Buildings are being built under the name of Development.
Here you can see the new Harbor City Development site, with new ANZ bank headquarter, New Executive Apartment and land reclamation site for further construction.
Right at back of it is Hanuabada village of Motuan people; life not much changed for hundreds of years since they have built the village on the water after migrating from other pacific islands.
It is a clear contrast of tradition and Development facing each other.
Everybody wishes for a comfortable modern life but if you believe in development and chase for it, you will lose your identity forever. Papua New Guinea is one of the last countries in the world which still keeps its own identity but it may have gone very soon....
Nobody knows where this country is heading for.

German vs England

World Cup match between German and England on Sunday ended with historical win for Germans and left a question about introducing the Video Referee. Video ref does not deny the human referee but helps to make a fair decision in a crucial moment, and it has proven very helpful in Rugby. FIFA should seriously consider it.
However, even the goal was admitted, the score would have been 2-4, so Capello should accept the defeat. - Simply Germany was too good for England this time.

Papua New Guinea was colonized by UK & Germans in November 1884 and for us, the game was between former colonial masters. Although Germans officially withdrew after World War 1 defeat, we have lots of German remains, including names like Bismark Sea, Mt Wilhelm, New Hanover, Alexishafen, Finschhafen, to name a few.

Congratulations for Germany and keep going for the World Cup !!

Future for PNG Football

Soccer World Cup is around the corner.

While Papua New Guinea is not doing well in the FIFA ranking -ranked 202 ----last on the list !! - at Club level, PNG's Hekari United won the Oceanic Club Cup Championship recently. (See Oceania Football Website for more detail.) Congratulations for Hekari !!

At Junior level, inter-school football match is going on in Port Moresby.

(Photo - Under 6 Koroboro Hunters vs. TEMIS Tigers)

During the colonial era, Football was brought by Germans to New Guinea. After the change of colonial master, Rugby League is the most popular sport across the nation.
But there are lots of young kids playing football these days. By the time these kids become senor level, PNG may be going for World Cup -- who knows ??

Farewelled the "Kopex" town

After an overnight trip to Duke of York Islands, we are back at Kokopo.
This was the last day at East New Britain and we strolled around the town.

When I first visited here in 1995, there was few permanent buildings. No Kokopo Beach Bungalow, No Rapopo plantation; ANZ bank was operating from barrack-type house.
Now it is one of the fastest growing towns of South Pacific - it has many new permanent buildings, big shops, warehouses, as well as historical buildings - one of the oldest Catholic Churches in Papua New Guinea, Modern History Museum .....
Kokopo Market was very busy with people selling and buying the food, cloth, basket etc...
Unlike other big towns in Papua New Guinea, people mind their own business and very safe.
We wish Port Moresby is safe like East New Britain ....
After several days of re-discovering Rabaul & Kokopo, we reluctantly left the "Kopex" town.


Vunapope = "place of the Pope" is one of the oldest catholic missions in Papua New Guinea .
The cathedral has been refurbished recently.

Queen Emma portrait at the Kokopo Museum.

Japanese Fighter "Zero" at Kokopo Museum.

Rabaul - Volcano Town

Rabaul was once called "the most beautiful towns in the South Pacific", until 1994 when the twin volcanic eruption ruined the entire town.


Since then, Government & Business Houses moved to Kokopo and no new building has been built in Rabaul. Most of the existing buddings have been collapsed because of the ash and subsequent effect of acid.

Rabaul township was first developed by the Germans. German Flag was raised at Matupit Island on 3rd Nov 1884, but the capital was in Kokopo. After they found that Kokopo does not have deep port to cater for a big ship, they have developed a new town with the big harbor - Simpsons harbor and named the town "Simpsonshafen".

Simpsonshafen was renamed as Rabaul after Germans have defeated the World War 1, but the town kept developing as main export town of Copra.

The Town was ruined by 1937 eruption which killed more than 500 people at nearby Matupit island and again by the World War 2.

But people who loved the "Frangipani" town came back and rebuilt the Rabaul.

With the mighty power of the mother nature, we are not sure if Rabaul will come back again to its beauty or not. However, with people still love the town and work hard to rebuild the town, I am sure there will be a hope.

Nation's birthday

On 16th September 1975, Australian flag was replaced by the flag of a new country called Papua New Guinea.
We will have 34 years "birthday" of the young nation tomorrow.

Happy Birthday, Papua New Guinea, despite all the problems, I trust your future is bright.
The photo was taken at Independence celebration at Korobosea International school.
From top left, Tolai (Rabaul), Mekeo (Central), Rigo (Central) & Simbu groups dancing away with their traditional costume.

Rabaul - Simpsonshafen

Rabaul, the provincial capital of East New Britain Province of Papua New Guinea is once called "Simpsonshafen" in German New Guinea time. It was shriving business centre by the early settlers including famous Emma Core - "Queen Emma".

The town has been devastated by the 1937 & 1994 volcanic eruptions & World War 2.
However, people who love the "Frangipani town" has come back and rebuilt the town.

With its unique culture tradition such as as Tubuan (by Tolai) & Fire Dance (by Baining), colonial & war history and natural beauty represented by the volcano, it is one of the major tourist destinations in Papua New Guinea.

Remember the past for the future

23rd July is Remembrance Day in Papua New Guinea, when we remember the people who have devoted their lives for the country, especially during the World War 2 (even Papua New Guinea did not exited at that time).
We can still see the scars of War which ended 64 years ago through the wrecks and remains.
The Photo is the Japanese Bomber (NAKAJIMA 49i "Donryu") sitting down at Alexishafen outside Madang.

We are probably the last generation who knows the cruelness and helplessness of the War, and thus it is our responsibility to tell the future generation not to repeat it again.

Another Memorial visit

Another memorial visit to PNG after many years, this time by the former diplomat of UK.
He has driven up the Highlands Highway from Lae and visited Mt Hagen show in 1970 - most of us were never born at that time !!
This time, he has covered most parts of the country during his 20 Nights trip in Papua New Guinea, namely Alotau, Misima, Losuia, Mt Hagen, Goroka, Madang, Kavieng, Rabaul, Hoskins & Port Moresby. Thank you Tom for your visit, we enjoyed your story and will all miss you !!

Sad News

We have received very sad news that Maggie Wilson has passed away.
She was a prominent business woman in a male-dominated Highlands society of Papua New Guinea, particularly known as an owner of Haus Poroman Lodge.
Born as a daughter of Gold miner from Australia, she was a living-history of "First-Contact Era" of New Guinea Highlands, business woman, politician & owner of arguably one of the Best Lodges in the country.
Personally, I have stayed about 3 weeks and learnt Tok Pidgin at Haus Poroman when I first came to Papua New Guinea in 1995. Even now, many people tell me that my Tok Pidgin is Kange (Mt Hagen) style, mainly owe to the people of Kunguma village. After 14 years, I vividly remember the friendly smile of Maggie, family & staff who made me at home.
Apart from language, I have also learnt a lot from Maggie and staffs of Haus Poroman (name itself means "house of friends"), how best we can treat international visitor with a true Melanesian hospitality in a professional manner.

Maggie, please be assured that your initiative has been inherited to many people and passed onto next generation.

Haus Poroman Lodge has been closed since 2007 but hope one day re-opened, so that we can visit our “home away home.”
May her soul rest in peace...

Note : As an alternative, "Hotel Poroman" in Mt Hagen town is run by her family member.

World Heritage Site

Kuk Early agricultural site of Western Highlands of Papua New Guinea has been listed for World Heritage. This is first World Heritage listing in Papua New Guinea.

Soils of Kuk have evidence of garden draining system dated back to 9,000 years ago.

This makes Highlands of Papua New Guinea as earlist known farmers on earth.

Ironically, the Highands of Papua New Guinea was "Discovered" by Europeans in 1930s, and First Farmers in the World is regarded as one of the last-found-tribes in the world....

Detail of World Heritage as follows.

http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/887

Living with Volcano - Rabaul

Mt Tavurvur and Mt Vulcan in East New Britain has erupted in 17th September 1994, destroyed almost all parts of Rabaul town. People have left home and evacuated, but soon after they have returned to Rabaul and started reconstruction. This is not the first time in the history and people keep coming back to Rabaul town after the volcano eruption.

Mt Tavurvur is still smoking up after 13 years, some parts of the Rabaul town is still under the ash, but people are living with Volcano.

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I am not sure if Baining Fire Dance is related with this Volcanic activities, but I just guess that ancient people must have tried to contral the God of the mountain by the Fire Dance ?? Bainings are now living in the hinterland but were the traditional residents of Rabaul before being chased by Tolais, so it could be true ??

National Mask Festival will be held in Rabaul/Kokopo and is coming soon - 16th-19th Jul !!

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White Sand from South Africa ?

Ela Beach is relaxing place for ordinary people in Port Moresby, and I personally call it as Waikiki of Port Moresby, because it is made up of imported white sand.

The difference is Hawaii imports white sand for tourist purpose, but PNG is not.

The story goes back to early 1900s, when Gold was produced near Port Moresby.

At that time, there was no Gold refinery in PNG so the Gold had to be shipped all the way to South Africa for refining. But there was no return cargo to PNG, and it is very dangerous to travel the rough Indian & Pacific Ocean with empty ship. So people came up with the idea of loading white sand from South Africa to stabilize the ship, and at the same time, make a perfect beach in Port Moresby, because most of the coastline was reef, rocky and there was no white sandy beach. Because of the great idea, now we are enjoying White sandy beach brought all the way from South Africa here in Papua New Guinea !!