Life on the river - Sepik

Sepik River is one of the greatest eco-systems in the world and usually referred as "Amazon in the Asia-Pacific". Apart from its vast rain forest, rich marine and bird life, what makes it more interesting is the people & its culture along the river.

Because of its remoteness, western influence is very much limited and even all the tribes have been Christianized, people still keep their traditional customs and beliefs.

Life on the river has changed very little for centuries; people cultivate land and get harvest, catch fish - still living along with the mother nature.

Sepik River Canoe Safari is to see and experience the river people's life from their level, not from luxurious tourist boat or 5 star accommodation, but stay in the village hut, feel the nature and real culture of the Sepik river and its people.

Body Paint

Body Paint is important for Traditional Dance in Papua New Guinea.
Different color is used in different cultures/tribes, such as Red, Brown, Yellow, Black, White etc....
Here in Madang, Body is painted with Red color before being decorated by leaves and feathers.

This is the secret of the red color. The fruit is smashed and red juice inside is used to paint the body, then rub the oil to make the body shiny.

Baby boy was looking at how elders are being painted and he started painting himself.
Yes, I am also a boy and need to dress up !!

Reef & Rainforest

Papua New Guinea is where Tropical Reforests meet with Coral Reefs.
Coral Reef is mother for all kinds of fish & marine life, while Reforest provides food & shelter for insects, birds, reptiles and mammals alike.

Local people are fishing on a dugout canoe, just enough for their family to eat for the day.
Very peaceful....
Due to the western influence, life is changing dramatically here but many people still live on the gift of "mother nature".

Parasitic Plants

Parasitic Plants are type of plants that lives on other plants.

Here in tropical climate, we can see a lot of parasitic plants on the trunk or branch of a large tree. It is amazing how different plants live together under a "house" of usually larger "Host Plant".The photo was taken at NCD Botanical Garden in Port Moresby.

By the way, I thought that Orchids were also parasitic.
But, according to the expert, none of the orchids are parasitic.
"In nature, many orchids cling to trees and bushes as a growth habit; but they take nothing from the host plant and do not injure it in any way. Orchids that can grow on trees are called epiphytes or, more commonly, air plants" ---- from website of "Orchid House"

Unusual Tour Guide

Another story from Madang. While we visited Haya village, baby Cassowary came around. As we walked around the village, he walked ahead of us like a Tour Guide, almost everywhere. - Unusual Tour Guide !
But later I found that he was not guiding us, but made sure that we did not invade his land or spoil his area.... He was actually on Patrol !!
I know Cassowary is very "territorial", but I couldn't imagine that this small bird claimed the whole village as his yard and suspect the new visitor like a criminal.........

Cassowary is very important bird, pet, or domestic "animal" in the traditional village society of Papua New Guinea. Although it maybe not be as important as Pig, it has certain prestige in the society and it is no doubt the "King of the birds" in Papua New Guinea.

Visit Amele villages outside Madang

Have visited Amele villages on the South coast of Madang.
After a short trip by 4WD, we have arrived in a beautiful Haya village.
After dropping off food stuff for our dinner, we have visited Hobe village where beautiful flower garden setup is made. Pomelo (a kind of orange) was so juicy and tasty especially after a walk in a tropical garden.

The sunset view from Suyao Lookout was amazing... On a clear day, you could see Mt Wilhelm and Sepik Plain stretching all the way to West Papua.

Amale villages (Haya, Hobe, Suyao) can be visited as an extended half day trip out of Madang town, but for those looking for a real PNG experience, village home stay at Haya village, with early morning jungle walk would make your visit much more interesting...

Bit of Science - Ornithoptera Priamus

"Ornithoptera priamus" is a common species of Birdwing Butterfly which lives from New Guinea Islands to Solomon Islands to the East.

We normally find Green-coloured male in mainland New Guinea.

On our last visit to Mioko Island. we have found the Blue-colored species, not knowing that it was one of the unique examples of Darwin's Theory of Evolution.

The Butterfly changes color from Golden-orange in the West Papua to Green in Eastern Half of New Guinea, and change to Blue/Green at this small Mioko Island. Further to the East at Bougainville and Solomon Islands, Blue dominates.

Just as culture is diverse and some 800 different languages are spoken, nature is also very much diverse and different in each islands here; After 15 years of living in this place, I am still amazed at the "Nature's Wonder".

Duke of York Island Adventure

On the next day, we have set sailed for Duke of York Islands. Duke of York Islands are group of 13 islands lie between New Britain & New Ireland on the St. George's Channel.

Today's main destination was Mioko Island, some 45 minutes boat ride from Kokopo. After we left our bags, we have departed again for snorkeling, and then fishing on the way. Not long, Dominic has caught a big Barracuda !!

After the marine activities, we have done a nature walk from the tip of the island to the Guest House. Mioko Island is where Queen Emma has set up her first plantation in 1878 and remains of her resident & Pool can still be seen in the jungle. (Photo below: remain of Queen Emma's swimming pool)

The flat walk can be done by any age group, and is full of attraction, history, tropical flowers, houses and curious local people etc...

The village life is very simple, people don't have anything luxurious yet have everything to live.

The trip was adventurous, heart-warming & educational.

Duke of York can be visited as a day trip if you want a modern comfort & hot shower, but if you really want to feel the village life and its hospitality, it is worth visiting by a overnight trip.

The next day, sea was very calm. When we are leaving the Duke of York, dolphins were chasing the boat and jumping as if they are saying "Goodbye and please come again !!"

Village Tour our of Kokopo

We have visited a village called Menebonbon outside of Kokopo.

The village is 45 minuets away from kokopo on the hill side towards the tip of Gazelle Peninsula and have living with substitant agriculture with Copra/Cacao as cash crop.

When we visited, villagers were busy cutting the Copra (dried Coconut). The cut Copra is dried in an oven in the village and later sold to the Copra factory in town before being exported to overseas.

After the "factory inspection", we have moved to a nearby house. The ladies were already preparing the today's lunch called "Aigir."

Aigir is traditional dish in Rabaul area and it is similar to the "Mumu" in a way that they use heated stone for steaming the food, but it is unique in its own way and ingredients.

The biggest difference from Highlands "Mumu" is Aigir use full of Coconut Milk.

Heated stones are placed on top of the Banana leaves and coconut milk is boiling up.

Then you add Taro, Chicken, Aibika, etc... and cover it up with the Banana leaves.

After 30 minutes or so, delicious Aigir is done !!

Sweet taste of Coconut milk is absorbed in all the ingredients and all I could say was "Oh, its beautiful !"

The village is situated on the hill looking down Warangoi Bay (on the other side on Tokua Airport) and blessed with nature. When I carefully look around, I could see Avocado, Paw paw, Cacao, Star Fruit, Coconut... everything was there.

Village visit experience is something you should not miss in Papua New Guinea,　and I can say that Menebonbon is one of the "secret treasures" of Rabaul/Kokopo.

Trip to Rabaul No.1

I have visited Rabaul last week.
Staying at comfortable Kokopo Beach Bungalow, I have visited Volcano town, Remains of German Colonial time and Japanese War Relics, and very nice villages on Mainland and Island.

Enjoyed the safe Town, comfortable Hotel, tasty Food & hospitable People.
I will post the trip report in next couple of days... should not be missed !!

Tree Kangaroo

One of the most unique, and cutest animals in Papua New Guinea is Tree Kangaroo.
As the name tells itself, it is a family member of Kangaroo, Wallaby & Koala in Australia - Marsupials. It doesn't hop much as Kangaroo & Wallaby, but is a very good tree climber.

Local people hunt the animal and eat the meat for thousand of years - many say the meat is "sweet" but I have never tried it yet...
There was sound population of Tree Kangaroo across the country, however, dramatic increase of human population and cutting down of the forest has been a great threat to the tree kangaroo these days. Thanks to the American-based NGO, first-of-its-kind Nature Conservatory was started in the remote mountains of Huon Peninsula to protect the bio-diversity in the area and particularly the Tree Kangaroo.
We also would like to support any positive action to protect the Tree Kangaroo.

Underwater Jungle

Papua New Guinea has Forest everywhere, from Lowland Tropical Jungle to "Cloud Forest" in the Highlands. But it is not only found on Land.
If you go for snorkeling or scuba diving, you can also enjoy the "Underwater Forest."
The coral reefs are so healthy and attract thousands of colorful reef fish.
Diving & Snorkel ling are available in different locations all year round, namely in Alotau, Kavieng, Kimbe bay, Madang, Port Moresby, Rabaul & Tufi.

Welcoming Orchid

This is another orchid I have seen at the nursery of the National Capital Botanical Garden recently. I reckon it is Dendrobium species, but not sure about the name...
What made me interested was that the flower looks like a "person is bowing down for the visitor, with hands open to hug you." So I decided to call it ""Welcoming orchid." - sorry if there is any other common name already exists !!
There are more than 3,000 species of orchid in Papua New Guinea, which accounts for more than 2/3rd of all the orchids in the world, and they are waiting to "Welcome" your visit.

Jelly Bean or Passion Fruit ?

The other day, I have found a funny-shaped orchid - Dendrobium smilliae - in the botanical garden. Well, this orchid was "found" in 19th century, so it is not "new" spices but the shape of the flower is very unique compared to other orchids.
For me, the seeds resembles like the inside of a tropical fruit so I named it "Passion Fruit Orchid".



However later, I found that it is called "Jelly Bean Orchid" by village children.



I have looked at pictures but I still support my idea of "Passion Fruit Orchid"......
What do you think ??

Nature's wonder at Sialum

You have never heard of Sialum (or Bobongara) at the North Coast of Huon Peninsula of Morobe Province, but the name is archaeologically very well-known for its "terrace" landscape which has risen up every year.

You can find the fossil of fish & shell at the top of the mountain.
Large waisted blade artifacts dating to 38,000 years ago have been excavated at the Bobongara, making it the oldest human habitation site in the South West Pacific.

The area is nominated for World heritage listing and may be the next World Heritage from Papua New Guinea after Kuk in Western Highlands.

Real "Paradise" for Nature

The word "Paradise" is often used to express Papua New Guinea, but I think sometimes the meaning of the "Paradise "is misinterpreted.

There is no well-maintained walking track to see "Bird of Paradise". There is no Aquarium to see the underwater world easily without hustle & bustle of carrying tank and odd equipment.

When I am walking in the jungle to see the rare species of birds, sweating and getting dirty, I sometimes question myself, is it a Paradise ??

However, as for the nature, much of the them are protected without being disturbed.

Coral Reefs are intact & healthy, much of the Rainforest remains and become breeding ground for many species of animals, plants & insects.

And when I finally encounter the rare spieces and find out that they enjoy the life without human disturbance, I also feel that, "Yes, this is the Real Paradise on Earth."

So the real meaning of "Paradise" in PNG should be something like that---- Papua New Guinea is one of the last Paradise on earth where human being and nature still live in harmony.

Weed in Papua New Guinea

When we order flower, beautiful and rare orchids are used in many occasions.

One day, I asked "Why do you use such an expensive flower ?"

The answer was "Oh, they are many of them in here, so for us, they are no difference from weeds." While Orchids are sold as expensive exotic flowers in many countries, they are sometimes regarded as "weeds" here in Papua New Guinea !!Papua New Guinea has more than 3,000 spices of Orchid, which accounts for more than 60% of all the orchid species in the world.

PAU Birding site - Port Moresby

PAU is one of the Universities in Papua New Guinea run by Adventist Church, but is also known as a Birdwatcher's heaven outside of Port Moresby.

With its peaceful environment, birds enjoy their life without being killed or chased away. There are lots of waterbirds, including endemic species as well as migrant species, all the way from Alaska, on the way to Australia and Antarctica maybe.

Photographed are common species, Pied Heron, Purple Swamphen & Wandering Ducks.

Other species frequent in the area are Comb-Crested Jacana, Spotted Whistling Duck, Pacific Black Duck, Rufous Night Heron, Egrets & Cormorants, Masked Lapwing, Sacred Kingfisher, etc...

My favorite is giant Papuan Frog Mouth, most of the time camoflouged and sleep on one of the trees.

Effect of Global Warming in Papua New Guinea

Carteret Atoll (Islands) have attracted much attentions from all over the world for their rising water level problem related to Global Warming.
In Nov 2005, news have spread the world that the Atoll will gradually become uninhabitable, with an estimate of their total submersion by 2015 and the islander will become the world's first refugees from the effects of global warming, although the No-Electricity/No-Gas/No-Vehicle islanders have not contributed to the World Carbon emission at all.
World TV News/Documentary crew flocked to the remote islands ever since.

Thanks to the media coverages, the name "Carteret Atoll" has become quite common among the environmentalists, NGOs and government officers in charge of environment in the world.

At the same time, it is also a fact that the majority of the Papua New Guineans have never heard of the islands or their problem, partly because of the isolated location of the Atoll, partly because the world media has not reached to most parts of the country, and of course, negligence by the succesive government.

So What is happening to the rest of the Papua New Guinea ?

Photo is one of the Motuan Villages in Central Province near Port Moresby.

Motuan used to live on the post house on the water but many have decided to live on the land due to many reasons, some obviously related to water level/high tide problem.

A house was built at the far end of the village but later most of the other houses were relocated to the land side and only one was left. Now with the fear of the high water level and isolation, the owner left the house.... villages are gradually moving towards the shore and further to inland.

Effect of Global Warming has not yet realized as a big threat in a daily life for most of Papua New Guineans but is steadily coming to the shore of Papua New Guinea.

Cuscus the shy Forest Animal of New Guinea

Papua New Guinea has slightly fewer species of Mammals than Australia, which is more than 10 times in land mass.
Among all, I believe Cuscus is one of the cutest ones, but for local people, it is one of the tastiest meat...
Cuscus is marsupials family (family related to Kangaroo & Koalas), slow moving animal which lives high in the jungle of New Guinea.
It is a shy nocturnal (moving in the night) animal so difficult to spot in the nature, but there is a chance if you walk the trek or stay in the village.